Compare insulation types

Mineral wool, PIR, multifoil, cavity fill and wall systems, side by side — by what they are for, not by a made-up score.

Check my homeReviewed 2 September 2026
Best value for a loft floorMineral wool to 270mm
Best for tight headroomMultifoil or PIR
WallsCavity fill if the cavity is suitable
Universal winnerThere is none

Pick what matters, then read the row

Every material below is the right answer somewhere and the wrong one somewhere else. Use the highlight buttons to surface the options usually considered for your situation. It is a starting point for a conversation with an installer, not a specification.

MaterialTypical useThicknessInstallationMoistureCost bandTrade-off
Mineral woolLoft floor to 270mm; between joists and studs270mm loft; 100–150mm walls/raftersSimple; DIY-friendlyBreathable; needs a ventilated loftLowest cost per m²Bulky; crushes if boarded over
PIR boardRafters, warm roofs, floors, solid walls50–150mmCut and fit; needs sealing at jointsVapour-tight face; detailing mattersMid to highRigid; awkward around services
MultifoilRafters, loft rooms, floors where depth is tight30–45mm plus air gapsFast; staple and tape; needs air gaps both sidesVapour control built in; air gaps must be keptMid; higher per m² than woolPerformance depends on installed air gaps
Blown cavity fillCavity walls built after 1930s50–100mm cavitySpecialist injection; half a dayNeeds a dry, suitable cavityLow per m²Not for narrow, damp or exposed cavities
EWI / IWI systemsSolid-walled homes; whole-house retrofit60–120mmSpecialist; disruptiveMust be designed for moistureHighestCost and planning considerations

Mineral wool

Use
Loft floor to 270mm; between joists and studs
Thickness
270mm loft; 100–150mm walls/rafters
Install
Simple; DIY-friendly
Moisture
Breathable; needs a ventilated loft
Cost
Lowest cost per m²
Trade-off
Bulky; crushes if boarded over

PIR board

Use
Rafters, warm roofs, floors, solid walls
Thickness
50–150mm
Install
Cut and fit; needs sealing at joints
Moisture
Vapour-tight face; detailing matters
Cost
Mid to high
Trade-off
Rigid; awkward around services

Multifoil

Use
Rafters, loft rooms, floors where depth is tight
Thickness
30–45mm plus air gaps
Install
Fast; staple and tape; needs air gaps both sides
Moisture
Vapour control built in; air gaps must be kept
Cost
Mid; higher per m² than wool
Trade-off
Performance depends on installed air gaps

Blown cavity fill

Use
Cavity walls built after 1930s
Thickness
50–100mm cavity
Install
Specialist injection; half a day
Moisture
Needs a dry, suitable cavity
Cost
Low per m²
Trade-off
Not for narrow, damp or exposed cavities

EWI / IWI systems

Use
Solid-walled homes; whole-house retrofit
Thickness
60–120mm
Install
Specialist; disruptive
Moisture
Must be designed for moisture
Cost
Highest
Trade-off
Cost and planning considerations

How to read thickness and U-values

A U-value describes how fast heat passes through a whole build-up — lower is better. The current edition of Approved Document L (as amended) sets limiting and target values for upgraded roofs and walls in England, subject to transitional arrangements, and installers design to those. Two materials can reach the same U-value at very different thicknesses: roughly, 270mm of mineral wool on a loft floor, 120–150mm of PIR between and under rafters, or a multifoil quilt with air gaps combined with a modest board layer. That is why thin products look attractive in loft rooms — but the air gaps a multifoil needs are part of its thickness, not extra.

The three questions that decide it

  1. Is the loft floor or the roof slope being insulated? Loft floor: mineral wool is almost always the cheapest good answer. Roof slope: PIR or multifoil, chosen by headroom and ventilation.
  2. Are the walls cavity or solid? Cavity: injected fill if the cavity is suitable. Solid: internal or external systems, which are a bigger project.
  3. Is depth constrained? Loft rooms, low headroom and shallow floors push toward PIR or multifoil. Open lofts do not.
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Moisture is where insulation jobs go wrong

Insulation moves the dew point. Put a vapour-tight board on the wrong side of a timber roof, block the eaves ventilation with wool, or skip the air gap on a multifoil, and the result is condensation on timbers a year later. Any installer on our panel has to show you the ventilation path in the quote. Ask to see it.

Head-to-head comparisons

Questions homeowners ask

Which insulation is best?
The one that suits the location, the construction and the space you have. For an open loft floor, mineral wool. For a roof slope with little headroom, PIR or multifoil. For cavity walls, injected fill. The comparison table above sets out the trade-offs.
Is thinner insulation worse?
Not necessarily. Thinner products usually have a lower thermal conductivity, or in the case of multifoil rely on reflective surfaces and air gaps. What matters is the U-value of the finished build-up, installed as designed.
Can I mix materials?
Yes, and installers often do — for example a multifoil under the rafters with PIR between them, or mineral wool between joists with a foil layer over it. The combination must be designed for moisture as well as heat.
Sources and when they were last checked
  1. Energy Saving Trust — Roof and loft insulation — checked 2 September 2026
  2. GOV.UK — Room in roof insulation best practice — checked 2 September 2026
  3. SuperFOIL — product range — checked 2 September 2026

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